Memories of Paris and Italia

France: Paris

Rendezvous: Reunion of friends

After bidding farewell to my friend Melinda almost a year ago in Perth, who would have thought that the next time I’d see her we would be in Paris.

But there we were at some café drinking warm beer whilst catching up on a year’s worth of life, and after almost 365 days, Melinda was in Paris directing her first international music video and I was on global roaming. How things had changed!

A Parisian for three months, Melinda’s tour of Paris included showing me why the Parisian suburb she called home was called Belleview, how to be pampered at a hamass, how to enjoy a popular French summer cocktail (it's name I can't recall), but probably the most spectacular – how to make an American music video in Paris, when you don’t speak French!

Voula: There it is

Paris lured me under its spell from the minute I arrived and it wasn’t long after that I started to feel an overwhelming sense of jealousy for the city’s inhabitants who get to walk its tree-lined streets every day. I was in love and tourists parading ‘I love Paris’ shirts constantly reminded me of this feeling. When you’re from Perth and you look at a map of Paris, it’s hard to comprehend how one city can offer so many cultural and historical indulgences to the world, and even harder to know where to start.

But you’ve gotta start somewhere and with just a week to celebrate everything French I became the dedicated tourist, rising early and sleeping late going from one sight to the next as if my life depended on it. I was dosed up big time on the tourist gaze. Smitten with the beauty Paris oozes in all directions I couldn’t put my camera down, behaving in a manner that challenges the photo-happy Japanese tourist. Not only did I add wear to my camera but also to the pavement, walking everywhere and anywhere, stumbling upon the city’s many secrets.

Paris is one hip and happening city, where enjoying the pleasures of life is highly valued. Its buildings are decorated with uber cool street art and the Parisian parades fashions which state quite clearly that anything goes. Its people are fabulously fabulous. I have no idea why Parisians are renowned around the world for their arrogance. My experience was only that of kindness, hospitality and generosity – three important qualities any traveler hopes to encounter.

Its café culture generates lively streets and you can get anywhere within a matter of moments thanks to one awesome metro system. Take a ride on the metro and you’ll see the country’s positive attitude towards multiculturalism – like Australia, the face of the Parisian is universal. It’s kitchens serve the world’s cuisines and its cinemas show films in their original language with French subtitles. Having spent the previous two months in the depths of rural Italy where outside influences are at a minimum, it was a real pleasure to go to Paris and enjoy the world.

Highlights

• Hearing the word ‘voula’ being used in every day practice.
• Visiting the Palace of Versailles – the absurd decadence of the place was a feast for the senses.
• Wandering through the Musee D’Orsay and viewing the works of the great Impressionist and Post Impressionist artists.
• Entertaining the locals during an impromptu hootenanny outside the Modern Art Museum.
• Walking deep below the streets of Paris through the eerie catacombs.
• Stumbling upon the café from Amelie and then indulging in their gooey chocolate cake.
• Visiting Jim Morrison’s grave.

Italia: Venezia, Firenze, Roma, Napoli, Pompeii, Sorrento, Amalfi Coast and the Cinque Terre

The catalyst for my three week adventure through Italia was a commitment made whilst still back in Oz to travel with the ever so fabulous Megan, an old mate from uni days. We had one week together and a demanding itinerary that took us to the beautiful cities of Venezia, Firenze and Roma. It was in the latter where Megs had to say her farewells, leaving me to my own devices. This meant two extra weeks on the road, first heading south to the insanity of Napoli then returning to the north to relax in the magnificent Cinque Terre.

Only once before had I visited Venezia, Firenze and Roma. It was in 2001 with my family on our first trip to Italia and ever since I had been dying to return.

Ensemble

I met Megs at Bergamo, a medieval town a few hours southeast of Colico. It was here that we started our travels, catching the local train with shit toilets (this can be taken very very literally) and no airconditioning. We were yearning for a cool breeze, however when we arrived at Venezia, we fast realised that travelling through Italia during its hottest month of the year meant there was no escape. Needless to say you become desensitised to the stench of your sweat especially after carrying a 15kg+ backpack.

With the heat of Venezia too much to handle, we took a ferry to the island of Lido in search of a beach but when we got there even the sea was hot. The only relief we found was a caraf or two of the local cocktail, Spritzer, and plenty of gelati. A tragedy, I know.

Only once night fell could you comfortably walk the maze that is Venezia. Even with a map, it’s easy to lose your sense of direction and know exactly where you are. I couldn’t help but feel for the postie with the challenging job of delivering everyone’s mail. One night a group of us, led by a couple of Venicians, went looking for the one piazzia who’s bars stay open past 12pm – let’s just say we got there just in time to have one drink before everything closed. I was told it takes a person at least 6 months to get a general vibe for Venice but judging by our hosts, perhaps it takes a little longer!

Firenze was brilliant. It’s one of those places that invites you to relax and not feel guilty for doing so. In its heart there are few roads making it very easy to observe the city’s offerings on foot. I was overwhelmed by the amazing display of Florentine craftsmanship, I had to focus very hard not to release the shopaholic in me. This was not helped by the city’s constant scent of leather.

One afternoon we took advantage of our location and jumped on a wine tour headed for the Tuscan hills. We should have known that we were tempting fate, for hilarious, ridiculous, unrepeatable shenanigans only followed and the next day’s journey to Roma was not pleasant.

Roma is one city that I would definitely love to spend an extended length of time in – just nowhere near Stazione Centrale, the location of our hostel, which should really change its name to Noise Pollution Centrale. I fell in love with the area known as Trastevere, the place to go if you want to eat real Roman food among real Romans (not tourists). It’s also the place to go drink the damn finest mojito I’ve ever had in my life. Somewhere near Piazzia Nuova I found a street occupied by a dozen or so vintage clothes stores, and I must say, it was very hard to leave without an exchange, but it was the exchange rate that helped me fight that demon. Just around the corner, near the Trevi Fountain, I tried the gelato Romans agree to be the best in town – honey sorbet – and fuck was it good.

A word of warning to anyone who visits the Colosseo – don’t take the friendliness of the gladiators literally. Upon exiting, Megs and I were their latest prey, encouraged with smiling friendly faces to have a photo with them. So the retarded tourists that we were, agreed, after which we were subjected to a 5 euro ‘thank you very much’ fee. Bastardos.

Solo

Napoli… Before arriving I was told Napoli is ‘un altra monda’ – another world, but those words didn’t hit home until I arrived and saw firsthand the festering, broken down, beat up, shambles that is Napoli. Here, nothing makes sense, rules don’t exist and you can’t expect anything – a tribute to years of mafia rule. When I got to my hostel, I was given a map of Napoli and advised very clearly not to enter a certain suburb because it was occupied by the mafia. It’s a phenomenon that the city actually runs.

Despite the madness and utter inconsideration for order, Napoli is awesome. Graffitied walls and monuments are like newspapers broadcasting the pulse on the street. Scooters carrying whole families zip past you and people in their masses haunt the city’s piazzias at every hour of the day. Then of course there is the pizza, which is so damn good, it’s hard to understand how pizza can taste so different.

Beyond the city of Napoli, the region of Campania offers many incredible adventures. I travelled to the heavenly island of Capri for an afternoon of luxury with my gorgeous new Brazilian friends. The following day, James, our native Italian joined us for a visit to Pompeii, which in addition to the new company was such a delight because it gave me a rest from having to speak Italian, or more so quarrel about the incoherent train systems. A climb to the top of the volcano Vesuvio and visits to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast ended my first experience of the south of Italia.

The horrible six hour train ride was a distant memory once I reached Riomaggiore, the first of five towns that make up the Cinque Terre. What makes this part of the world so incredible is the fact that each town has somehow wedged itself on the edge of towering cliff faces that plunge violently into the Mediterranean. Look above and its mountains have been tamed with vineyards and olive groves that demand incredible strength and ingenuity from its farmers. It’s hard to imagine how its settlers managed to carve a life here so many years ago, but when you come you understand why.

Twice I walked the 9km coastal path that takes you to each village, first on my own then again with my new friend Caroline, another Perth girl. The trek was undoubtedly the highlight of my entire trip. Grueling at times, it was so unbelievably beautiful that any pain I may have felt has been forgotten. For anyone planning on doing the walk, I strongly recommend starting from Riomaggiore – you give your legs a chance to warm up in preparation for some serious hiking. When you do reach Monterosso, head straight for the beach, kick off your shoes and wash that sweat away in water so clear you can see at least 20m below.

By a twist of fate, my last night in the Cinque Terre and in fact my entire Italian adventure was also the last night for the residents of the apartment we shared. And so two Australians, three Finish and two Americans feasted on a enormous pot of seafood marinara and plenty of liquor. We took a midnight swim, marveled at the sea of stars above us, sang improvised acapala and shared insights into each other’s cultures. Such a wonderful memorable way to end what was an incredible trip, grazie a mille!

Reflection

I was hoping to be able to share with you my thoughts on Italia post adventure, but the truth is, with every day that I live here I learn more and more about the historical and modern day fabrics that intertwine together to make up this beautiful and complex country. Sharing my opinions now would be premature, but I do know that with Italia, and with most things, there is always more than meets the eye. So forget any clichés you know about Italia, they’re just that.